R.D. 2004

The wine in this vintage

From an abundant, classic year with a fresh, linear profile, Bollinger R.D. 2004 combines the tension of the vintage with the complexity that only very extended lees ageing can bring. The nose moves between candied citrus, quince, almond, toast and hints of honey and spice; the palate has a firm structure, pronounced chalky minerality, still vibrant acidity and a very long finish. Robert Parker and James Suckling both awarded it 97 points, confirming the stature of a long-underrated vintage. Despite its age, the wine is still far from its peak: an R.D. to wait for patiently, which will reveal further facets over the coming years.

The producer · Bollinger

Founded in Aÿ in 1829, Bollinger remains one of the very few great Champagne houses that is still independent and family-owned. Its modern identity bears the stamp of Madame Lily Bollinger, who ran the house from 1941 to 1971, famously cycling through the vineyards and instilling an uncompromising culture of quality. The house farms a substantial estate of its own, largely rated Grand and Premier Cru, with Pinot Noir from Aÿ, Verzenay and Bouzy as the backbone of its style. Tradition here is a working method rather than a slogan: a significant share of the wines is fermented in small, seasoned oak casks looked after by an in-house cooper, reserve wines are kept in magnums under cork, and lees ageing is long. The result is vinous, deep Champagne with an almost still-wine texture and the ability to age for decades. Its flagship cuvées, La Grande Année, R.D. and the rare Vieilles Vignes Françaises from ungrafted vines, are benchmarks for serious collectors.

Critics' scores

• 97 Robert Parker
• 97 James Suckling

Technical details

Producer

Bollinger

Region

Champagne

Country

Francia

Type

Bollicine

Vintage

2004

When to drink

Not yet at its peak

Critics' average

97/100

Sizes

75 cl, Magnum 150 cl, Case of 6 × 75 cl

eWibe code

0090104